Technique

Embroidery digitising: what to send your digitiser

Send vector artwork at final stitch size, the exact garment and fabric, the position, the thread brand and colour numbers, and any stitch count ceiling. Digitising is fabric-specific, so the same logo needs different treatment on a piqué polo and a fleece hoodie. Missing the fabric and the final size causes most re-digitising rounds.

The information that turns a two-round digitising job into a one-round job, and the details that quietly cost you rejects.

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Digitising is a craft, not a file conversion. Whether you buy it in or do it yourself, the quality of the brief decides whether you get one round or three, and how many rejects the job produces later.

The brief

Vector artwork. AI, EPS, PDF or SVG. If all you have is a raster image, say what it is and expect either a redraw charge or a compromise.

Final stitch size, in millimetres. Not "left chest", a number. A logo digitised for 90mm and run at 60mm loses its small detail and gains a density problem.

The exact garment and fabric. Brand, style, and fabric type. Piqué polo, jersey tee, 300gsm fleece, softshell, structured cap. Digitising decisions are fabric decisions.

Position. Left chest, centre back, sleeve, cap front, with placement measurements if you have a standard.

Thread brand and colour numbers. Madeira, Isacord or whatever you run, with actual numbers. "Dark blue" produces a colour conversation on the sew-out.

Stitch count ceiling, if you have one. If your price assumes 8,000 stitches, say so, and let the digitiser make the density decisions that keep it there.

Anything with small text. Flag it. Text under about 5mm cap height needs specific treatment or it fills in and becomes an unreadable smudge.

What good digitising gives you

Property Why you care
Correct pull compensation Circles stay round, text does not distort
Appropriate density No puckering, no thread breaks, no board-stiff patch
Sensible sew sequence Fewer trims and colour changes, less machine time
Correct underlay Stitches sit on the fabric rather than sinking in
Efficient stitch count Lower cost per garment on every reorder, forever

That last line is the one to internalise. Two files of the same logo can differ by 20 percent in stitch count with no visible difference. On a customer you sew for years, that difference compounds; see pricing embroidery by stitch count.

Always sew out before the order

A sew-out on the real garment, checked for registration, density, small text, pull distortion, and the appearance of the underside. Then approve the file. A file approved on screen is a file approved on hope.

Charge for it, and only once

Digitising is a one-off per design per garment type. Charge it as its own line, then never charge it again for that combination. Reorders that skip the charge are one of the easiest goodwill wins available, and they cost you nothing because the work genuinely is not there.

Keep the file with the customer, not in a folder

The reason digitising gets paid for twice is that nobody could find the file. Attached to the design and the customer record, a reorder in two years is instant.

The brief as a form, not an email

Everything in the list above works better as a structured field than a paragraph of prose, because prose lets people leave things out. The fields that eliminate a second round:

Field Why it decides the file
Final stitched width and height Digitising is size-specific; scaling wrecks density
Exact garment and fabric Piqué, fleece and performance knit each behave differently
Position Left chest, cap front and sleeve are three different files
Thread brand and numbers Prevents a substitute nobody approved
Stitch count ceiling Gives the digitiser your cost constraint up front
Backing to be used Changes the underlay decision
Small text present The single most common cause of a redo

If your quote already carries the garment, the position and the stitch count for pricing, the brief is mostly a print-out of the order rather than a fresh document. That is the point: the information exists, it just usually lives in three places.

Judge a sew-out against a checklist

A sew-out is only useful if someone inspects it properly. Six things, in this order:

  1. Registration. Do outlines sit on their fills, or is there a gap on one side?
  2. Small text. Legible at arm's length, or a fuzzy grey block?
  3. Puckering. Hold it flat and look across the surface at a low angle.
  4. Density. Is the fabric showing through, or is the fill so heavy it is board-stiff?
  5. Trims and jumps. Excessive jump stitches mean cleanup labour on every garment.
  6. Reverse side. Bobbin ratio and backing behaviour tell you how it will wash.

Approve the sew-out formally, attach it to the design, and note the run parameters that produced it. A reorder then reproduces a known result rather than repeating an experiment.

The economics of getting it right first time

A re-digitise costs the digitiser's fee twice, a second sew-out, and usually a delay that lands on a promised date. Worse, a barely acceptable file costs you on every single garment for years: thread breaks, trims, slower run speed, higher reject rate.

That compounding is easy to see once labour is measured. Clock on to embroidery runs, and the job costing report shows which designs consume hours out of proportion to their stitch count. A recurring order that runs 30 percent slower than it should is a re-digitising job that pays for itself in a month, and without the measurement it just looks like embroidery being embroidery.

Keep the file, the brief and the approval together

The file on its own is not enough. What you want on a reorder is the machine file, the native file, the approved sew-out, the thread numbers and the run notes, attached to the customer's design rather than scattered across a hard drive, an inbox and a machine's memory card. Printer's Friend keeps all of it on the design against the customer, so a two-year-old reorder quotes without the digitising charge and runs at the settings that worked. The pricing side explains why that reorder is the most profitable work in the shop.

Printer's Friend keeps the digitised file on the design so reorders reuse it, holds stitch count per position for pricing, and stores the sew-out approval with the order. Terms like pull compensation, underlay and backing are in the glossary.

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Questions

Can a digitiser work from a JPEG?
Yes, but not as well. Vector artwork gives clean edges and accurate colour separation. From a low-resolution raster the digitiser is interpreting, and interpretation is what you end up paying to correct.
Does the same design work on a polo and a cap?
No. Caps are sewn on a curved surface from the centre outwards with different stabilising, and fleece needs allowance for pile. Budget for a separate file per garment type, not per garment colour.
How do I check a digitised file before running the order?
Sew a sample on the actual garment, not on a test scrap. Check registration, density, pull compensation, small text legibility and the underside. Approve the file only after that sew-out.
What file formats should I keep from a digitiser?
Keep both the machine file you run, usually DST or the format your machine prefers, and the native editable file such as EMB or the digitiser's working format. Without the native file, any future edit is a re-digitise. Ask for both at the point of order rather than two years later.
How do I get a stitch count down without losing quality?
Ask the digitiser for it explicitly, with a ceiling, and accept the trade: simplified small text, fewer fills, a lighter underlay, tighter density. A design at 6,200 stitches that runs clean beats one at 5,400 that breaks thread twice, so judge the result on a sew-out rather than on the number.
Should the customer own the digitised file?
That is a policy decision, and it should be written down before it is asked. Common positions are that the digitising charge buys production use with you, or that it buys the file outright at a higher price. Either is defensible. Silence is what causes the argument.

Run the shop, not the chaos.

Printer's Friend turns every job in this article into a tracked order: quote, artwork approval, production stage, invoice.

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